Route 15 sortie 234 : nous sommes arrivés à Craig sur la Missouri river, dernière étape de notre trip Montana 2012. Nous avons traversé le Montana depuis le Wyoming frontalier et la fabuleuse et orgiaque Big Horn.
Trop, c’est trop … il nous faut changer de contexte. La Big Horn nous a presque trop donné, (voir article “PMD days en plein désert”).
La Missouri (prononcez “mizourwé“), là où nous la pêcherons, est une très large rivière (comme la Loire par endroits) dans un secteur rocheux et aride du centre du Montana, au nord/nord-ouest de Bozeman.
Nous sommes en aval d’un barrage qui la transforme en gigantesque meadow, un peu déroutant, et la rend propice à devenir en été un boulevard d’embarcations tendance foire à neuneu : vous y voyez passer le dimanche des conglomérats de bateaux gonflables de plusieurs dizaines de mètres de front, avec le bruit qui va avec … mais hormis ces journées noires … c’est une rivière majestueuse, un temple de la pêche à la mouche aux states.
Nous planterons nos tentes sur ses berges, au campsite du village de Craig, 7 $ la nuit avec le permis de pèche Montana. Des chiottes (une cahute avec un trou, quoi)mais pas d’eau.
Craig, le St Barth de la fario, le Megève de la rainbow surtout. 4000 truites par milles … On dit de Craig que c’est l’endroit ou l’on trouve des milliardaires qui rêveraient d’être guides de pêche, et des guides de pêche … qui rêvent de devenir milliardaires.
Pourtant, Craig, ce n’est qu’un bled paumé entre la nationale et la Missouri. Un resto, un fast food (papa’s burger), un bar … et quel bar ! …quelques habitations, un rail désaffecté, des serpents à sonnettes pour lier le tout … mais 4 ou 5 flyshops, des drift boats partout, un embarcadère, et un campsite spartiate donc. Le point d’eau collectif ? le tuyau devant le flyshop HEADHUNTERS !
L’eau plus solide que le carbone ?
Je ne me couvrirai pas de gloire sur la Missouri, contrairement à mes fly brothers … Je ferai certes quelques poissons, mais me distinguerai surtout l’avant-dernier soir en brisant ma canne sur la surface de la Missouri, plus dure que je n’imaginai. Vous le saviez, vous qu’un coup -violent- de canne sur la surface, ça fusille le scion ? Mettez-vous à ma place. Des résultats plutôt décevants sur cette rivière si propice, un avant-dernier-soir, je suis sur un haut-fond avancé le long d’un super courant, légèrement en aval de l’arrivée d’un bras secondaire. Je suis tendu .. . ça va être grandiose … ça aurait du l’être … perdant patience je me met à injurier la rivière comme quoi “j’ai fait des milliers de km pour venir ici”, et que “je fais des efforts pour m’approcher d’un spot propice”, et que elle … elle n’a même pas un ou deux gobages à me mettre à proximité pour me satisfaire. Et vlan, je lui inflige un aussi violent que mal venu coup de fouet … que je regrette aussitôt : ma canne, déjà raccourcie après l’épisode “décollage des cannes sur le toit” de la Henry’s Fork river, vient de perdre 10 cm de plus … OXTIA !!! Cet épisode mis fin à ma session sur la Missouri. Moralité ? le carbone -avec élan- est plus fragile que l’eau …
Niak et Romzy froidement efficaces, eux …
Nico et Romain firent de bons coups du soir, mais surtout une dernière matinée exceptionnelle, avec des arcs grandioses actives sur des tricos.
Le spent de trico avec parachue, c’est THE mouche au mois d’août sur la Missouri. Les niveaux sont bas, les eaux fines, claires. Très peu de sedges le soir, quasiment plus de PMD’s. Les locaux la pêchent même avec une imitation d’agglomérat de tricos. Par endroit, le matin, c’est une crème de tricos qui dérive. Les arcs la sippent avec entrain. Avec entrain ne veut pas dire qu’elle prendront votre mouche sans poser de question !
Mon seul bon coup de pêche sera sur une berge en aval de Craig, favorable par vent de Nord à une prospection à la sauterelle, même -et surtout- en plein cagnard d’après-midi. une belle arc, bien que bizarrement conformée (empoissonnement ?)…
J’en ferai d’autres pas mal un matin, dans des conditions délicates (wading très profond), actives sur des spents de PMDs. Je serai mis en échec par deux belles bêtes en train de se gaver de tricos. Moi à genou sur un banc de gravier et de plantes aquatiques au milieu de la rivière, elles 5 m devant moi, à se gaver de tricos si petits que mes montages sur hameçon de 20 paraissaient énormes, sur un illusoire 6X qu ne m’aurait pas permis de tenir ces truites approchant voire dépassant les 20 inches.. Et ce pendant 3/4 d’heure à 1 heure. Dans le même temps, une charmante pêcheuse avec son mari également pêcheur, descendus de leur drift boat stoppé sur l’autre berge face à moi, me mettra 3 ou 4 poissons dans la vue. La différence entre les conseils avisés de leur guide, et mon tà¢tonnement de moucheur de passage. Différence aussi entre leur pêche en nymphe plombée avec bouchon, et ma quête de l’archi-sèche.
quelques photos “ambiance” …
NB : L’actualité pêche de Craig sur le blog HEADHUNTERS (la seule actualité de Craig en fait 😉 :






















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